Bonampak Ruins: Maya Murals Deep in the Chiapas Jungle
Located in the Lacandon Jungle of Chiapas, Mexico, the Bonampak ruins are a surviving testament to the artistry of the ancient Maya civilization. Built predominantly during the late Classic period (AD 580 to 800), the site is renowned for its stunning murals, providing vivid depictions of Mayan life, rituals, and ceremonies.
Translated as “Painted Walls” in modern Mayan, Bonampak offers visitors a unique lens into the vibrant colors and stories of the past. For those contemplating a visit, the ruins are moderately accessible from the closest town, leading to an experience deep in the natural ambiance of the jungle. The site maintains its mystique, often enshrouded in the jungle’s mist and sounds.
Currently, Bonampak is under preservation to retain its delicate art and architecture. Its significance is internationally recognized as it plays a crucial role in understanding Mayan history, even if it hasn’t yet been accorded UNESCO World Heritage status.
Visitors should be prepared for a journey back in time, where art, history, and nature meet. Bonampak is one of the sites that will be made more accessible by the Maya Train Route.
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History of Bonampak
Bonampak’s roots trace back to the ancient Maya civilization, which flourished in Mesoamerica long before the Spanish conquest. Construction at this site predominantly spanned the late Classic period, between AD 580 and 800. Nestled within the Lacandon Jungle, Bonampak was an integral part of a larger political and cultural network that connected various Maya city-states.
The city’s zenith is believed to have occurred under the reign of Chaan Muan II, around AD 790. Evidence suggests that during his rule, the site underwent significant expansion and saw the creation of its most famous attribute: the murals. Discovered within the Temple of the Murals, these paintings offer unique insight into the rituals, battles, music, and dances of the Mayan elite.
Despite its once-thriving status, like many Mayan cities, Bonampak experienced decline. By the end of the 9th century, it was largely abandoned. The reasons for this abandonment remain a topic of debate among historians, with theories ranging from internal strife, over-farming, or prolonged droughts.
The ruins remained cloaked by the thick jungle canopy and were virtually unknown to the outside world until 1946. It was then that two American travelers, accompanied by a Lacandon guide, stumbled upon the site. Since its rediscovery, substantial efforts have been invested in excavation, revealing a mere fraction of what once stood, with many secrets of Bonampak still waiting to be unearthed.
In the grand tapestry of Mayan history, Bonampak stands out not for its size or military might but for its exceptional contribution to art and our understanding of the daily and ceremonial life of the Maya during the late Classic period.
Main Sights of Bonampak
Bonampak, though not the largest of Maya cities, has unique sights and well-preserved murals that give it a distinctive place in Mesoamerican history.
The Temple of the Murals
Undoubtedly the most iconic structure at Bonampak, this temple consists of three rooms, each adorned with vivid, well-preserved murals. These artworks are of immense historical importance for their depiction of daily Mayan life.
Room one showcases a ceremony with musicians and dancers. Room two displays a battle scene, where prisoners are captured and presented to the rulers.
The last room portrays a ritualistic bloodletting ceremony, where elites pierce themselves to offer blood to the gods.
The Acropolis
Overlooking the site, the Acropolis is a complex of several structures. Some of these buildings might have been residential quarters for the elite or used for ceremonial purposes. The Acropolis offers a panoramic view of the entire site and the dense jungle beyond.
The Grand Plaza
Central to the site, the Grand Plaza was a multifunctional space. It hosts several stelae (stone monuments) that commemorate important events or rulers. Surrounding the plaza are other notable structures, including what’s believed to be administrative or residential buildings.
Stelae and Altars
Scattered throughout Bonampak are several stelae and altars. These monuments are carved with glyphs and figures, chronicling significant events, dates, and leaders. One notable stela depicts Chaan Muan II, the ruler during Bonampak’s height.
While these are the primary attractions, it’s worth noting that many areas of Bonampak remain unexcavated. Every corner, mound, and overgrown area could potentially hold remnants from the past!
How to Visit Bonampak
Bonampak ruins are quite remote, so getting here will take some planning. Most travelers visit on a tour from Palenque, on an itinerary that combines the Bonampak and Yaxchilan ruins.
However you arrive, once you get close to Bonampak, in most cases you will be required to change to a local transport van for the last portion of the trip. The indigenous people of the region, the Lancandon, run transportation between the highway and the park entrance. This protects the jungle as well as adds to the local economy.
By Tour
This part of the jungle is quite remote and close to the border with Guatemala. Travelers will find it easiest to visit with a tour.
Here are some tours that can be arranged ahead of time – all have good reviews and easy online booking. I’ve used both companies below: Viator (a TripAdvisor company) and Get Your Guide.
Getting to Bonampak by Car
The Bonampak ruins are accessible by road from the nearest towns. However, due to the remote location and safety concerns, it’s better to use a tour.
If you drive, I recommend only driving on the Chiapas roads only during daylight hours. This is because of varying road conditions and to avoid potential security concerns that might arise after dark.
Follow 199 that goes from Palenque – Chancalá – Corozal Border, as far as the San Javier exit at km 97. Continue on the road towards Lacanhá and the archeological zone is another 2 miles.
Once you near the Bonampak site, you will most likely be prompted by local residents to park your vehicle, then switch to local transport for the last half hour (for a fee).
By Bus/Shared vans
Collective vans (colectivos) frequently operate within the region and to and from the site.
Visiting Tips for Bonampak Ruins
- Temple of the Murals: Access to this iconic attraction is limited. To preserve the murals and ensure their longevity, only a set number of individuals are permitted to enter at a given time. For the best experience, I recommend planning your visit early in the day or during non-peak hours to minimize wait times.
- Amenities: While Bonampak is deep in the jungle, basic amenities such as restrooms are available for visitors.
Essential Information for Visitors
INAH: Bonampak (National Institute of Anthropology and History)
Please note that while this is an official website, it’s advisable to verify details before planning your visit.
Opening Hours: 8:00 AM – 4:30 PM daily (last entry 4:00 PM)
Admission fee: $95 MXN (subject to change)
Can you hire a guide onsite: Y | Can you climb the ruins: Y | Parking: Y
Services: Restrooms, souvenir sellers
Accessibility for those with disabilities: Limited (Given the natural terrain and age of the site, some areas might be challenging to access)
Is photography allowed: Y | Photos might be limited inside the mural rooms (i.e., no flash); professional photography might require a permit or additional fees
Nearest town: Frontera Corozal 14 miles (22km) | Palenque 90 miles (145 km)
Hotels: Hotel Boutique Quinta Chanabnal or search Palenque | Frontera Corozal
Other Noteworthy Sights in the Area
While visiting, you might want to add these other nearby sights to your Bonampak visit itinerary.
- Palenque: Many travelers choose a home base in Palenque to explore the region’s sights. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Palenque is one of the most iconic Mayan cities. Its ruins showcase exceptional architecture and intricate carvings and are set within the lush jungle. While only a fraction of the city has been excavated, landmarks like the Temple of the Inscriptions and the Palace offer glimpses into the grandeur of Mayan civilization and hint at what remains to be discovered.
- San Cristóbal de las Casas: A charming colonial town in Chiapas, known for its cobblestone streets, local markets, and a blend of Mexican and Mayan culture. A must-visit for cultural enthusiasts, San Cristobal was one of my favorite towns on my first long trip through Mexico into Guatemala.
- Yaxchilán: Located along the Usumacinta River, Yaxchilán is another remote Mayan archaeological site requiring a boat trip to reach. It’s possible to visit Bonampak and Yaxchilan together with a guided tour.
- Laguna Miramar: This pristine lake is set within the rainforest. Visitors can swim in its clear waters, kayak, or simply relax by the lakeside.
- Las Golondrinas Waterfalls: Set in the heart of the Lacandon Jungle, Las Golondrinas is a cascade of waterfalls and natural pools. The cool waters and lush surroundings offer a refreshing break, especially after a day of exploring ruins.
- Misol-Há and Agua Azul: Two of Chiapas’s most famous waterfalls. While Misol-Há is a tall waterfall with an impressive drop, Agua Azul has a series of cascades with vibrant blue waters that have carved limestone pools over millennia.
